The Moire is a traditional method of mechanical finish, which provides a mixed gloss and matt effect by crushing certain parts of the fabric. Moiré requires a series of gestures, precise and technical moves, which will enhance and brighten a simple dyed fabric into a shimmering, sophisticated material. Beyond its technical aspects, it’s a bit of magic that is imparted to the fabric, revealing some effects, which are invisible if left untreated. Depending on which angle you look at it, a Moire fabric presents a unique vibration of color and light. The resulting design is usually made up of long waves and smaller or larger concentric patterns.
LA MOIRE
LA MOIRE
LA MOIRE
LA MOIRE
LA MOIRE
LA MOIRE
LA MOIRE MIRAGE
The Moire Mirage collection is available in 30 colours and in 4 different designs : Plain fabric, Moire Libre, Moire Tracée and Moire Myriade.
Origin
The origin of the Moire appears to date back to the era of Ancient Egypt, a period during which similar effects were found by layering thin strips of cotton cloth and linen and observed on papyrus.
In Recent history, the Moire – which is derived from the word “mohair” – has been found in the Middle East on Angora fabrics; artisans wished to improve its brilliance by rubbing its pile against stones.
The Moire becames a fully finished process in the late 17th century. It later developed throughout the world by following the Silk Route. During this period, the Moire was obtained by folding the fabrics in the middle and calendaring them under 30 to 40 tons of stones, a process called Moire Antique, which enabled a perfect symmetry of the design.
The etymology holds several assumptions: either it identifies with the sea; or it has a connection to the Greek word for shimmer; “marmarisein” or the late Latin word to present marbling “marmorare”, which has phonetic affinities with the Latin word for wonder “mirum”.
Nowadays
BENAUD, since it’s beginning, wanted to perpetuate this expertise by specialising in the making of Moire fabric. Performed in a workshop located in the heart of Lyon, the Moire know-how has been passed on in the same family for five generations. The method used to this day is still handicraft, so each piece is unique. However, it has been improved and made more reliable to obtain optimum final quality.
MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Two pieces of fabrics are rolled together.
Both superimposed fabrics are placed in front of an artificial lighting. We observe the moiré pattern by transparency. It is by an hand made process that the craftmen designs the moiré pattern to achieve an homogeneous and harmonized moiré design. The wefts from one fabric to another are precisely organized and positioned to achieve the design. At this stage, the fabric is not moiré but we can visualize the final vibration. The magical process begins !
The calendering operation reveals the moiré pattern by crushing together both pieces. We place the 2 superimposed fabrics between 2 cylinders under a pressure of 35 tons. The cylinders are heated from 90 to 140 degrees depending on the materials used.
The two fabrics are then separated and the Moiré pattern appears. Both pieces present the same design, but each meter of Moiré remains Unique.
